1930-1940

As the depression began fashion contrasted to have great innovations despite the economic fall. All around the world were in great financial crisis and there was a noticeable difference in the classes or richer and poorer people. Wealthier people benefitted as they kept servants, could travel, were well educated- this allowed the cycle to carry on as the richer well educated people would get good jobs and raise wealthier families who would provide their children with better education, and so the cycle continues. However the poorer people who had to live with large families cramped into small rooms and unhealthy living situations with little or no education would carry on that cycle of raising poor families as families could not afford to get their children good education and therefore would not get good jobs with a worthy income.

 

Although in the previous decade hemlines were raised to the knee, this era portrayed a very classy sophisticated, to contrast to the depression people tried to put on a front and still dress respectably and well-dressed to cover the financial problems they may have had. Longer hemlines returned and waistlines went back to waist height instead of hipline. Designers now focused on a classier, elegant style but keeping it simple for people to still be able to afford the clothing as the depression left everyone in an economic down fall.

 

 

Towards the end of the decade small shoulder pads became popular leading to the big emphasis on them in the 40’s. This was the very beginning of where media influenced fashion, movies influenced how women dressed and what they thought about fashion. The ‘hollywood image’ became very big, as women aspired to style and look like famous celebrities in this era, idols included Marlene Dietrich.

 

 

 

Hats became very popular and a ‘must have’ fashion choice when going out, almost everyone, men and women, wore hats when on outings. Hats were normally Plate shaped hats worn towards the back of the head. Men in suits were still big and carried on as a popular choice throughout this era. Even lower class men would try and aspire to get a suit.

 

New silhouette shape was founded as garments became more tight fitted, widened shoulders, longer figure hugging skirts, brought in at waist. New popular styles arised as godets and pleats below knee were introduced showing a more fishtail design.

 

 

1920-1930's simplier garments, shorter hemlines

In the 1920’s when World War 1 had just ended fashion began to change dramatically. Hems of skirts started to rise, flappers became the ideal women style, people began to dress more casually. Firstly the hem only rose a few inches but when flappers became very popular in 1925 when it rose to just below the knee, by 1926 hemlines had reached the knee. As dresses became shorter shoes became a focal point.

Flappers were women of working age in the 1920’s whose hair, style, dress were very different to the previous ‘ideal women’ image of the Gibson girl from the previous generation. Flappers dress sense was quite masculine; they would flatten the chests with tightly tied pieces of cloth, and cut hair short. At this time waistlines dropped to the hipline and dresses became unfitted.

Fashion became simple, dresses and garments were simplified in manufacture but still contained embroidery and detailing. Towards the end of this era hemlines became tamed and the popularity became asymmetrical hemlines, shorter at the front longer at the back, around 1928/1929 however the hemline still never exceeded knee length.

1910-1920 Kimonos, Draping and flapper dresses

1910-1920

Shaping and silhouette constantly evolving, more innovative styles were developed like the hobble skirt and the lampshade skirt. The Edwardians became more daring and unique, showing interest in asymmetrical draping techniques; When visiting the V&A museum in London the exhibition for fashion history showed in depth 1910-1920 fashion and how it evolved throughout the decade. It spoke about ‘the cult of kimono’ which happened between 1905-1915, so was very influential in this time era. This highlighted that the trade and the world becoming a more multicultural society, the fashion from different cultures started becoming more popular. The popular kimono worn in western and eastern Asia then became popular in Europe which then was promoted even more as Paul Poiret started bringing out draping wraps and gowns and getting rid of corsets and shaping clothing, highlighting the Edwardians interest in draping garments.

Considerably less boning and shaping was used in bodices and boning was now only for supporting the shape as opposed to changing it. Suits became a fashion for daywear and seen as more casual alternative now. A big change in fashion happened in this time as fashionable skirt hem rose to the ankle.

 

The world becoming more multicultural also allowed the influences of art and design to change. The tribal aspects of Africa and Asia influenced a huge change in art and design not only for fashion but in lots of fabric furniture, buildings, art furnishings this kick started the slow revelation of printed fabric in garments.

Continuing with the draping craze popular trends at this time from the first world war, were bat-wing sleeves draping skirts, higher waisted trends, flapper dresses and skirts rising above the ankle.

 

The first 3 photos I took myself at the V&A London, Fashion history Exhibition. The last photo courtesy of pinterest.com.

1900-1910

 

In the Victorian era, queen victoria reigned from 1837 to 1901, a whole new style of clothing developed and continued even after Queen victoria left the thrown in 1912. In Victorian times one of the main influences in fashion was to focus on a curvy figure. The monarchs were a huge influence when It came to fashion and were what everyone aspired to wear. In the Victorian era the s-shaped silhouette was very popular and most upper class and people who could afford that type of clothing wore it. The exaggerated structure of certain Victorian dress elements and shape was part of an effort by designers to emphasize the popular silhouette of the moment.

 

 

The Industrial Revolution was the transition to new manufacturing processes from about 1760 to between 1820 and 1840. The transition went from using hand production to produce garments to machines and production methods such as chemical manufacturing, improvement of machine tools, iron production  and water power . The first industrial revolution was all based around water as this powered most of the machinery and did most of the work in the different processes. The second industrial revolution was also known as the Technological Revolution, was a larger stage of the Industrial Revolution, between 1840 and 1860 until World War I throughout the 1900’s . Unlike the first industrial revolution this was developed as powering all machinery and processes by electric which changed the whole way in which garments were produced and made. This made garments eaiser to make and therefore could produce more of products quicker and allowed designs to be made more detailed and intricute.

 

 

 

Simpler Silhouettes 1900-1910

At the start of the 1900's ladies fashion was all about silhouettes. Women would wear dresses over body shaping underwear and the fashionable, wealthy lady would wear rigid corsetry to mould there body into the desired body shape. The main silhouette aimed for was the S-bend posture this emphasized the narrow waist and larger curves.

 Towards the start of this decade the fashion was based all around the hourglass figure with fullness at the bottom of dresses, however towards the end of the decade the more popular choice was tailor made suit dresses, that had been introduced in previous century and remained fashionable.

Also steering away from the more feminine style silhouette dresses and to carry on the more masculine change, most decoration of garments was discarded; lace, ribbons, pleats and gathers, for  more simpler garments.